Відео

Just been a busy year! I’ll be back soon 🫡

I wouldn’t personally, I’d stick to full synthetic 0W-20 or 5w-30 if you’re in an extreme hot environment or tracking the car 👍

@@ryevdee6064 thanks a lot man!

Still using it to this day, no hydro 👍

Zach at Counter Space Garage!

I haven’t had the same issue since! But yea I keep a spare belt around now too just in case 😭😂

as long as you're not redlining the car every pull, you should be fine.

Cars are happy somewhere between being babied and being absolutely beaten on imo, they do want to rev, act like engines, get to temp, it’s unnatural for them to not go through their “full range of motion” if that makes sense, hence why babied barely driven supercars break frequently, but on the same token can’t be doing it all the in any situation. I’d look at it as working out but for your car in a sense, you have to stretch before you work out (or should), someone who stretches and works out frequently will perform better generally than one that doesn’t, parts deteriorate instead of staying lubed and healthy if left unused right? Same for cars as humans, we’re both somewhat machines. 👍

Cry me a river 😂😭

Really just depends, stock car in a normal situation I’d agree might as well stay 0w20, but if you’re FI, run the car hard, and/or in a hot environment, 0w20 will thin out in a nanosecond which is also not ideal, so I think it’d be best to be mindful of your situation and environment when it comes to weights, which is why the owners manual recommends 0w20 OR 5W30 for extreme environments.

Without headers and such it really is pretty gutless from the factory, high air pressure in the rear always helps and I prefer keeping the fuse pulled if you’re drifting for any prolonged time. Rather have 0 extra factors when drifting if possible 🙌

Nope it’s the oem 4.1 torsen! 💪

@@ryevdee6064 might wanna consider changing the final drive

It’s always a tough consideration since this isn’t the only track I drive, optimal final drive here won’t be elsewhere for example, but I am hunting for a 3.7 they’re some what rare though 😭

Can’t wait to try again! 🙌

Back then the FRS was my daily haha 🤠 It was on Megan inner tie rods and coil overs that’s about it mods wise for drifting, camber around -3 I believe!

Nope I just leave some space for Jesus 🙏 On Tein JDM versions of the Flex A’s

YOLO 🙏

Totally get it man, hard to make EL FA20s sound any different than a bees nest 😅 In tandem I gotta be able to hear my car, sometimes you drive with people with even obscenely louder cars than mine is now, had to make some kind of change to stay in tune with the cars rpm’s to stay safe 🙏

🥸

Bought at 48k, it has 94.5k now, it’s been through autox for a year then drift for the last 3 years, no major issues to report. I do fluid changes religiously either 3k miles or every drift event now and it seems to stay happy. The stock clutch only just now gave out after 3 years of drifting, 2 years NA and now 1 year boosted. So overall I’d say it’s pretty reliable 👍

@ryevdee6064 one more question would you say pbm angle kit daily drivable. I out here in San diego by parts shop max

I think my idler pulley bearings were going out which led to enough wobble to throw the belt in the right situation pinging off high rpm’s, haven’t had any belt issues since! 👍

@@ryevdee6064 good to hear. I should inspect mine to see how they are holding up. Car is 11 years old almost.

Nope! Don’t quote me but even if you did the lightweight pulleys which does change how the engine spins in a sense, you still don’t need to retune. But these being idler pulleys only it doesn’t change anything in how it runs overall, the lightweight crank/AC/alternator pulleys are what changes the engines effort in spinning the accessory drives.

Do the front ball joints. If you don't they WILL fail. Google it and you will see what I mean.

I doubt it, the springs add more tension but they don’t make it a work out in any sense, I’d give it a shot! 🙌

Hit up @nowinaero on IG! 🙌

I don’t but I think best bet is to wait til you have your oil cooler core on hand, I did a lot of pre-fab which ended up not lining up. Would’ve been just as good if I just waited to have more accurate marks, but I’d definitely swing away man, little parts like this help build confidence for more complex stuff down the line! 🙌

GETS ME EVERYTIME 😭😂

Depends on the course/track; osw skid pad is 2nd for most people, but the oval is 3rd and most road courses you probably would need to go beyond 2nd to link it. 👍

Orlando Speedworld!

Great question! Some companies sell combination packs but for these particular parts you’d have to order separately. Ft86 speed factory now sells their own tie rods which are made by verus which is a cool collab and I think one of the better toe arms since it comes with the eccentric lockout plates as well 👍

Somewhere in the ~270hp range, I’ve drifted the car from stock power to headers to now turbo though, don’t need much to have fun! 🙌

Sorry to hear! From what I know if it gets flushed soon enough your trans might end up being fine, hope that’s the case for you 🙏🙌

I do! I run the Jackson racing oil cooler setup, sweet piece of kit! 👍

At this point it was indeed, Ace Header CS400 to Ace front pipe to TRD